How to Spot Quality When Shopping Secondhand

How to Spot Quality When Shopping Secondhand

A Smart Buyer’s Guide

A Smart Buyer’s Guide

Shop Secondhand Based on Your Personal Style
Shop Secondhand Based on Your Personal Style

Before you click “buy,” here’s how to tell if that secondhand item is actually worth it.

When you’re shopping secondhand, especially online, you don’t have the luxury of trying something on, feeling the fabric, or checking every seam in person. You’re often working from a few photos, a short description, and your gut.

So how do you tell if something is actually high quality?

Whether you’re staring at a $48 blazer on a resale app or scrolling through pages of vintage denim, this guide will help you make smarter decisions about what’s worth buying. You’ll learn what quality looks like, what it sounds like in a listing, and what to watch out for before you commit.

Why Quality Matters More Than Price

In resale, price can be misleading. Some $20 finds will last you years. Some $200 “deals” will fall apart in three wears. High quality doesn’t always mean high brand name or high cost. It means fit, fabric, condition, and construction that hold up over time.

Step 1: Evaluate the Fabric First

Even if the brand is unfamiliar, fabric tells you a lot.

Look for:
  • Natural fibers like wool, cotton, linen, and silk

  • Structured synthetics like TENCEL or nylon blends (especially in outerwear or activewear)

  • Denim with weight: vintage or rigid cotton jeans tend to last longer

  • Knitwear with clean texture and tight weave (avoid fuzz, pills, or stretch)

Watch out for:
  • Thin polyester that looks shiny under flash

  • Loose or open knits with signs of pilling or sagging

  • Rayon/viscose without detail photos: these can shrink, fade, or wrinkle badly

  • No fabric listed at all: a sign that the seller may not know (or doesn’t want you to ask)

Not all fabric blends are alike. Cotton jeans with a little bit of spandex for stretch can still be high quality and even more comfortable. But a linen blend that’s only 50% linen probably won’t be nearly as durable and breathable as 100% linen.

Tip: If a listing says “100% cotton” or “wool blend,” that’s a good start. If it just says “soft material” or “stretchy”, be cautious.

Step 2: Check the Photos Like a Quality Detective

Photos are your stand-in for a fitting room. Look at them closely, and look for what’s missing as much as what’s shown.

What to zoom in on:
  • Seams and stitching: crooked seams or loose threads are red flags

  • Edges and hems: are they clean and finished, or curling and uneven?

  • Fabric surface: look for signs of wear, pilling, or thinning (especially in high-friction areas like underarms or seat of pants)

  • Lining: a lined blazer or skirt often signals better construction

  • Labels: zoom in on the brand, size, and care tags if possible

Tip: Photos taken in natural light, on a neutral background, with multiple angles (front, back, close-up, measurements, photos of imperfections and stains, other details) are a green flag. The seller is thorough and wants you to know exactly what you’re getting. If the item is poorly lit, wrinkled, or only shot from one side, assume you’re not getting the full picture.

Step 3: Read Between the Lines in the Description
Some sellers are detailed and honest. Others are copy-pasting. When reading descriptions, decode what’s being said and what’s not.

Good signs:

  • Mentions of fabric content (especially natural or premium fibers)

  • Notes on fit (“oversized,” “slim,” “cropped”)

  • Clear sizing help (measurements or how it fits the seller)

  • Any repairs or minor flaws disclosed

  • Info on original retail price or age of the item

Red flags:

  • Phrases like “unsure of fabric,” “brand unknown,” “feels high quality!” or “super cute!” without substance

  • Lack of measurements, especially for vintage or brands with inconsistent sizing

  • No condition listed (if there’s no mention of flaws, ask)

  • Overuse of stock photos—these can mask the item’s current condition

Step 4: Know the Signs of Good Construction

When photos or tags give you access to the actual make of a piece, here’s what to check:

  • Is it fully lined? Jackets, dresses, and skirts with full linings often indicate higher quality

  • Are the buttons sewn on securely and reinforced? Bonus if there’s an extra one still attached

  • Is the hem finished with care? A blind hem (where the stitches don’t show) is a good sign

  • Are there darts or seams for shaping? This means more tailored construction

  • Does the item still hold its shape when laid flat or hung up? Good fabric and structure hold their shape

These cues are easier to check in person. but some show up in sharp, well-lit photos.

Step 5: Know What’s Worth the Risk

You won’t always have perfect information. But some categories offer more built-in value, especially if you’re shopping for quality:

  • Outerwear: Look for coats in wool or heavy-duty cotton blends. They’re often lightly worn and built to last.

  • Blazers: Tailored pieces with lining, strong shoulders, and quality fabric are consistently good secondhand bets.

  • Denim: Especially vintage or 100% cotton pairs—these tend to wear in, not out.

  • Shoes and boots: Especially if soles are intact and leather is clean; many pairs just need a polish or resole.

  • Sweaters: Stick to wool, cashmere, or blends with a tight knit and minimal pilling.

A special word on vintage: Vintage items are harder to assess fit because you can’t just walk into a Madewell and try the item on new. This makes vintage shopping online harder for you AND for everyone else, and as a result, vintage prices online tend to be lower. At the same time, vintage items have been around longer and have already stood the test of time. As long as you are comfortable paying the price knowing the item might not fit you, vintage can totally be worth the risk.

Avoid impulse buys in categories that are harder to vet online: swimwear, undergarments, or synthetic items where the fabric is crucial to comfort.

Final Word: Let Quality Guide the Buy

When you’re shopping secondhand online, it's easy to get swept up in price, trend, or nostalgia. But if you pause and ask, “Will this hold up? Will I actually wear it?” you’ll start to spot what’s worth buying and what’s better left behind.

Learn the signs. Trust your eye. And remember: quality isn’t about perfection; it’s about staying power.